Camping de la Pointe

La Pointe lies just outside the picturesque town of Châteaulin, close by a tree-lined bend of the canalised River Aulne. The site is British-owned – Vikky and Mike took over from another English couple in 2008 – but it attracts a loyal following of French campeurs, along with British and Dutch regulars, who appreciate the warm, considerate welcome, spacious pitches and good facilities.

Set in a conifer-lined valley at the foot of a deciduous forest, the site was recently incorporated within the borders of the Parc Naturel Régional d’Armorique. A tinkling stream runs down one side, and the  pitches, separated by hedges and flowers, sit on terraces rising up the wooded hillside. Experienced campers themselves, the owners know what their customers want – there’s a spacious play area for the kids and a chill-out room; outdoor furniture for lounging and a handy fridge-freezer. If you fancy having a BBQ, they are available for hire, and there’s a daily boulangerie delivery as well as fresh eggs and vegetables from the kitchen garden. Along with the woodland, the canal path is ideal for a walking, running, cycling or fishing (the canal is a grade-II salmon stream), but adventure-sports junkies won’t need to travel far either.

To get a bird’s eye view of the Breton countryside, take a trip) to the summit of Ménez-Hom, the highest peak in the Black Mountains. At just over 1000 feet (330m) it’s no Everest, and you can actually drive almost to the top, but it offers a panorama of Western Brittany and the Crozon Peninsula like no other. The paragliders who use the peak get an even loftier view looking north towards Brest, south to Quimper, and west, where the coastline curves around the sweep of the Baie de Douarnenez with its extravagantly long, level stretches of sand. Near Douarnenez, Pentrez beach is conveniently connected to the site by bus in July and August and was home to the sand-yachting world championships recently. You can hire a sand-yacht of your own if you can handle the adrenaline thrill, while surfers who want to catch the Atlantic swell can head for Pen Hir Point. However slower-motion adrenaline junkies will find pleasure here, too – Marcus and Julie are keen bird-watchers, and they recommend the rugged cliffs around Pointe du Raz and local marshland sites near Le Faou to fellow twitchers.

Another essential excursion is to the remarkable medieval town of Locronan, a perfectly preserved, cobbled and car-free haven which became famous in the 14th century for making sailcloth. The sand-coloured granite houses and 15th-century church have made it a favourite location for film-makers, and it’s so reminiscent of Hardy’s Wessex that Roman Polanski’s version of Tess of the d’Urbervilles was filmed there. The town feels quite touristy in the afternoon, so it’s probably best to go on a Thursday evening, when there’s an atmospheric ‘starlit’ market during high season.

In short, there’s plenty to do around La Pointe and you won’t want to leave. The visitors’ book is full of comments like ‘I only meant to stay one night and I’m still here a week later’. Which says it all, really.