Invercaimbe might be the only campsite in the country that is linked to the beach by a children’s slide. Well, that’s just one way on to the sand that seems to surround the site. Actually you can also jump, step or flop down from your pitch straight on to the bright white strand.
This working croft has been in the same family for 270 years, and as soon as you arrive you’ll see why they’ve been so keen to hang on to it. The perfect little beaches curve like scallop shells round two sides of the headland and open on to a rocky foreshore. Here, as the tide goes out, you’ll discover a mysterious playground of sands, lagoons and rockpools.You can’t help but feel 10 years old here; the urge to dig canals and take crabs hostage is all but irresistible. Even if you only dangle your toes in the cool turquoise waters you’ll instantly feel your cares washing away.
The sea is so much a part of this site that everyone becomes a little amphibious. Couples don wetsuits and splash through the rising shallows like dolphins. Children run from and taunt the incoming waves like oystercatchers. Kayakers awkwardly launch themselves into the foam where they become as fleet and sleek as seals. Then, as the sun begins to drop drowsily into the west, most people grab a cup of something wet and warming and perch on the rocks to watch one of the most spectacular sunsets in the land. It’s hard to take your eyes off the kaleidoscope of colour in the sky, but you must be careful that you don’t let this waterside wonderland capture your spirit completely. After all, where do you think mermaids come from?
Campfires allowed. 18 pitches, 16 hook-ups. There are 4 toilets, 2 showers, a laundry and dishwashing room. The best way to book a pitch is to text Joyce, who also keeps a freezer stocked with essentials: burgers, buns, veg, ice cream, and beef reared on the croft – about as organic as you can get.
Tents, campervans, caravans, groups, dogs – yes.
Ferries run from Arisaig and Mallaig to visit the beautiful nearby small isles and also Skye – operators are Arisaig Marine (01687 450224) or Cal Mac (0800 066 5000). Arisaig Marine also runs sealife-watching trips. There are walks along the side of Loch Morar and The Jacobite steam train runs from Mallaig (9 miles away), which is worth visiting in itself to try some fresh fish or just watch the boats come and go from the working harbour. The Ardnamurchan Lighthouse (01972 510210) is also worth a tour.
Food & Drink
Treat yourself to lunch or supper just 10 minutes’ walk up the hill at the stunningly situated Cnoc-na-Faire (01687 450249). The Café Rhu (01687 450707) in Arisaig, 2 miles away, is fab for both quick bites and more leisurely meals. Whether you eat in the bar or the restaurant of the Arisaig Hotel (01687 450210) you will find a medley of fresh seafood. The creamy East Coast Cullen Skink and dish of Loch-Nan-Uamh mussels are both first class.
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