Wild Mountains

In the tiny village of Cwmdu, there’s a small, honey-coloured building that has been at the heart of the community since the moment it was built back in the early 1820s. The uneven walls run from one terraced section across to the next, connecting a whole row that has, through the years, boasted each and every trade a village could need: It’s been a post office, a grocery store, master tailors and linen draper and, off course, a village pub. Indeed, in the 1860s, it was all of these things at the same time.

Today, Cwmdu Inn, owned by the National Trust and run by the community, retains its essential character – low interior beams, an old inglenook fireplace and a cluster of tables with room for just 17 people – while the home-brewed beers they used to craft in the back room have been replaced by award winning local ales. Those with a nose for a proper old pub won’t be disappointed. And neither will avid campers. For years people have been posting across the internet – where’s the nearest campsite? Is there anywhere to camp near Cwmdu? Does the Cwmdu Inn have a campsite? Finally, a happy ‘yes’ is the answer. And what a campsite it is.

Run by Tom and Lisa Corcoran (and their amiable dog Ambrose), Wild Mountains Campsite is not actually owned by the Inn but, set in the meadow directly opposite, the two remain very much connected. In fact, it’s not exactly a campsite either. Just four pre-pitched, fully-furnished bell tents make up the on site offering, so you can’t simply rock up with your own tent or campervan, and inside each you’ll find proper mattresses, bedding and a wood-burner provided. This is camping in comfort and the small scale of the place lends it a real privacy that helps preserve the total tranquility of the area. It’s appropriate given the size of the tiny settlement. On the edge of a designated Dark Sky Reserve it’s also blessed with the darkest and starriest of night skies, so some time set aside for stargazing is a must.

From your tent there’s ample space for little’uns to go exploring. Mature trees and hedgerows hug the meadow in a green embrace, while the River Dulais skirts along one side. On a hot day, children delight in dabbling along its edges building makeshift dams. Though, it’s not exclusively a child's activity. Ruined Talley Abbey is also within walking distance – a fair trek but a pleasant, countryside route – and by car there are a wealth of castles and heritage attractions in the vicinity. As the name suggests, though, it’s the rural, remote aspect of this campsite that is the real appeal. The Black Mountain and Llyn Y Fan Fach lake in the nearby Brecon Beacons National Park awaits any would-be explorer, with long days in the outdoors only accentuating the pleasures of the cosy pub at the end. It's a ready-made itinerary that never gets old.