Eco-friendly, back to basics, back to nature — call it what you will, but there's a vogue for this kind of camping and when it's done well, it can be an amazing experience. And to do it well, you need to commit properly, which is where off-gridders Ellie and Liam walk the walk and talk the talk in their little slice of back-country North Cornwall. Their bell-tent meadow site is not only a passion project, it's their life, as the two hosts live on-site in a small caravan, showcasing their low-waste, natural-living aesthetic and expertise. If you want to go wild swimming or deer-watching (karow means deer in Cornish) or learn how to cook great one-pot meals over a wood fire, Ellie and Liam can help you out with that, confirming that "this isn't your typical camping."
The meadow site is a former tree nursery — there are plans to turn it into a sustainable smallholding — where five bell tents are sited on two adjacent fields, reached by mown paths through the tall grasses and wildflowers. Three of the tents are four-metre size, ideal for a couple plus an extra child's bed. The other two are five metres and could sleep a family with up to three kids. Everything is simple, cosy, rustic, and entirely off-grid — so no WiFi, electric power, or lighting in any of the facilities. The mattresses are on raised pallets and, while there's a cheerful, country vibe with the soft furnishings, there's not a whole lot more to the tents save bedside tables and a lantern or two.
A couple of minutes' walk from the tents are the compost loos and covered cold-water shower, cutely built from reclaimed and recycled materials. An inventively fitted outdoor kitchen-shelter has the gear to knock up simple meals and heat water, with communal barbecues and fire pits also available. Grab a fire tripod and you're set for open-fire cooking, which costs you a hundred quid a head in a fancy restaurant these days but is yours for the price of a bag of wood and some ingredients from the local farm shop. You're welcome to bring your own cooking stuff if you like — barbecues, burners, and fire pits — as long as they are raised off the ground and you stick to the mantra of 'leave no trace'.
It's true that this may not be for everyone — it's charming, homemade, homespun camping, not high-end glamping that some may be in the market for. But it's done with passion and soul, and for those willing to embrace a simpler way of life, even for just a few days, the rewards are enormous. Nature is ever-present — the local deer might appear at dawn and dusk — and there's something about chilling out, slowing down, and mucking in that soon grows on you. You'll learn to kindle up the rocket stove, heat water for a morning cup of coffee and a shower, and spot stars at night around a campfire. You'll make mealtimes a collaborative effort, listen out for the birds, and sleep soundly under canvas. When it comes down to it, there's not a whole lot else you need, and the outside world will still be there when you get back home.
Karow Meadow is off-grid and surrounded by nature, but it is close to a road, which means that to explore beyond the site you're really first going to have to jump in a car. The central Cornwall location (nearest town, Bodmin) offers the best of both coasts since it's only a 30-minute or so drive either north or south to spectacular coves, harbours, and beaches. Liam and Ellie can point you to some of the less-visited spots, such as the fishermen's cottages and beach at Gorran Haven or the broad beaches and cliffs of the Roseland peninsula.
Historic Bodmin is only five miles away — the newest attraction is the immersive experience that is the 18th-century Bodmin Jail (01208 76292), where you can investigate the darker side of Cornwall's history. You're also right on the edge of dramatic Bodmin Moor (01872 322350), an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty of unenclosed heathland, extensive peat bogs, and the granite hills known as 'tors'. Brown Willy is Cornwall's highest tor, at almost 1,400 feet — you can reach it from the Forestry England car park at Rough Tor (0300 0674800), about a 30-minute drive from Karow Meadow, around the western side of the moor. Bodmin itself also marks one end of the Camel Trail, an 18-mile, mostly traffic-free route from Bodmin to Padstow – a brilliant day out if you've brought your own wheels, but there are also bike rental places available in local towns, including Bodmin. For a gentler excursion, drive the seven miles east to Respryn Bridge (01208 265950) and amble through the woods on a circular trail through the National Trust's Lanhydrock Estate.
The nearest pub is the Lanivet Inn (01208 831212), but while it's only a mile and a half away, you'll have to drive as the road is too busy to walk there safely. It's a nice place to have as your local though, with good beers, a large beer garden, and a pretty good bistro menu, strong on locally sourced produce. Three miles the other way, at Inches, the farm shop at the Real Food Garden (07825 240677) is the place for sustainably grown seasonal veggies, herbs, salads, eggs, and bread. If you're out on the Camel Trail, the Camel Trail Tea Garden (01208 74291), halfway between Bodmin and Wadebridge, is a real gem you shouldn't miss — you can walk or cycle straight there (or park close by) and enjoy snacks, lunch or a cream tea in their charming apple-orchard cafe. Best fish and chips? Probably not where you think (ie, out on the coast), but a ten-minute drive to the Port and Starboard (01726 860270) at Indian Queens, for sustainably caught fresh fish and Cornish potatoes by award-winning farmers-turned fryers.