Long distance love is always a challenge. For Michel, living in Holland, and Sara, in Italy, the only solution was to meet halfway in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region of France, where, today, the couple have set-up an enchanting, 30-pitch campsite on the banks of the River Dordogne. For the Hipcamp team it has blossomed a long-distance love affair of our own, yearning to be back, embraced by the wrap-around river and the dappled shade of the trees. Of course, Camping La Champagne won’t be relocating to us any time soon. A love like this, however, is always worth the journey.
Set directly on the banks of the Dordogne, nine kilometres upstream from the tiny medieval city of Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Camping La Champagne is spread over a trio of flat terraces, with the upper most pitches offering views across the valley to limestone rocks opposite and the lower pitches right beside the water. In the middle, fruit and nut trees provide shade for a handful more tents and campervans, where families fold out camping chairs and make spacious plots their own.
Sara and Michel don’t go in for fancy facilities. There’s no need for a swimming pool with the river so close at hand, while a boules pitch and ping-pong table work well instead of a playground. Along with WiFi at reception, the most modern touches are the mobile homes and glamping options – there’s a trio of furnished safari tents with proper beds and kitchens – while the washroom facilities are clean and well maintained and there are freezers for replenishing ice-packs.
The real joy of Camping La Champagne is its homely, small-time feel. An old caravan has been converted into a cute snack bar down by the riverside and Michel and Sara have a clutch of canoes you can hire to paddle out on the river. Occasionally they cook big evening meals for campers too but it’s all pleasingly ad hoc and relaxed.
It’s the river that dominates locally. Canoeing is a superb way to enjoy it, while, further along the valley, there are beautiful rock faces and cave systems to explore. It’s a half-hour drive to the Cascades de Murel, a breathtaking series of waterfalls with hiking trails beside them and several plunge pools you can leap in to. Five minutes further, Cascade de Vieyres is reached via a more adventurous trail with another popular jumping point for those daredevils who can handle the eight-metre plummet! From splashing and swimming to visiting the riverside towns – there are six of France’s Les Plus Beaux Villages within 20 miles – you won’t be short of things to do. Or of things to miss when you have to leave. Perhaps you too will be lost to the love of Camping La Champagne and making the long-distance journey for years to come.
The Dordogne Valley needs little introduction and at Camping La Champagne, on the banks of the river, you couldn't be much better placed. Fishing, canoeing, hiking and biking are all on hand for the active traveller, while historic riverside towns like Beaulieu Sur Dordogne, 9km away, are nearby for those wanting something more sedate. The latter has a good tourist information centre (+33 565 332 200) and is a handy place to get your bearings and make plans for the rest of your stay. The town is also home to Corrèze Sports Animations (+33 587 060 414), who hire kayaks and canoes for downriver journeys between Argentat and Puybrun (with or without a guide) and rent mountain bikes for local circuits. There are 5 of France's Les plus beaux villages (most beautiful villages of France) within 30km of Camping La Champagne – Curemonte (16km), Carennac (23km), Loubressac (24km), Collonges la Rouge (25km) and Autoire (27km) – while the dramatic medieval castle of Les Tours de Merle (+33 555 282 231) is 30km away, as are the 11th century towers of Tours de Carbonnières (+33 555 287 084; free access all year round) and the Renaissance Château de Montal. For classic Dordogne caves try Gouffre de Padirac (+33 565 336 456), complete with an underground boat ride through the interconnected caverns, while Grottes de Presque (+33 565 403 201) are around the same distance away (25km – a 30-minute drive) but lack the drama of the river running through.
There's a riverside bar on the campsite, selling snacks, drinks and ice-cream, while fresh bread is delivered each morning during the school summer holiday season. Once a week Michel and Sara also cook a big dinner for those interested (you'll find out more at reception upon arrival). Elsewhere, there is a small bar in Brivezac – Le Destin (+33 664 458 316) – a 1km walk away but, for maximum choice, drive (or cycle) the 9km to Beaulieu sur Dordogne where there is a range of bars and restaurants. Sara and Michel recommend Chez Colette (+33 555 286 360), a small cosy restaurant with a real focus on local produce, Bar Des Voyageurs (+33 555 911 834) in the main square, Les Flots Bleus (+33 555 910 621) for a riverside setting or, for something quick, La Pizza (+33 555 912 578), which is self explanatory. For lunches, A L'Abri du Moulin (+33 555 911 141) is also a great choice and has English owners.
