Soulac-sur-Mer, claims the tourist office, is ‘close
to everything except boredom’. They’re not
fibbing. This seaside resort on the Bay of Biscay is
dense with activities to suit all ages, all within easy
walking/cycling distance of each other. Starting at
La Pointe de Grave, 88 miles (141 km) of cycling
tracks run south down the Médoc coast to Les
Landes, taking in wild beaches, stunning lakes,
chateau vineyards, and scented pine forests. Long,
sandy stretches front Soulac’s compact town, where
bijou boutiques and eateries suit all tastes. The
resort has been protected from urbanisation, the
streets look cute in their neo-classical splendour,
and the locals appear to be a friendly bunch.
We’re on the northern tip of the Médoc,
where the Gironde Estuary meets the Atlantic
Ocean on the Côte d’Argent (Silver Coast). The
drive from Bordeaux takes close to two hours, or you can journey south across the estuary from
Royan. Soulac is a calm, quaint resort. Locals claim
it was the country’s first beach resort and celebrate
their heritage every June at a lively carnival. At the
end of the last decade the town weathered two big
storms that ate away at the coastline. Safely situated
328 yards (300 m) back from Plage de l’Amélie is Camping de l’Océan, undeniably the nicest
campsite on the Soulac block. Their set-up is
exemplary. A snack bar, reception, and wash-rooms
are designed to blend in with the surroundings.
Everything you need is on site, but if it’s not, just
grab a bike and get pedalling until you find it.
Soulac won’t leave you wanting.
